Mexico

Mexico

Dear Ones,

With visions of Frida Kahlo and expectations of mariachi bands at the airport, I arrived in Mexico City worried if I would drink the water or eat green salad ever again. Not to worry! Mexico City has changed enormously and while bottled water is the safe option, you just might want to drink watermelon water (aqua de sandia) or even aqua de toronja (grapefruit).

COLORS GALORE: The waters are as colorful as the soul of Mexico. Provence grows drab in my memory as I confront turquoise painted vendor carts, bright blue houses and plastic draped table tops, dancing with garish colors.

CONDESA IS HOT: D.F. arrondissements are called colonias and have names-none is more on the tongue than Condesa, an art deco area of chic apartments, street cafes, stores and promenading chilangos, local yuppies. There are over 400 protected buildings from the 1920's nestled into an area that feels like an old fashioned neighborhood, like a cross between Madrid and New Orleans. The place to stay, to eat Sunday brunch or even browse in the gift shop is the Condesadf hotel -- more Miami than Mexico. You can even eat the salad safely. Note that the name is simply a stylish affectation, think condesa as in the name of the colonia and df, for distrito federal, then run them together in typeface, (52-55-5241-2600; info@codnesadf.com; avenida Veracruz 102, Colonia Condesa, Mexico DF) The color here is turquoise, which is a hot color representing a cool place. Condesa backs up on the colonia of Roma which is said to be the next new thing.

DOWNTOWN IS HAPPENING: The restoration of the historical area (Centro Historico) and main square (zocalo) at the heart of the old city has been a pet project of local businessmen. The area now has a new Sheraton hotel (Sheraton Centro Historico Hotel, www.starwood,com; 5255-130-5300) and the cathedral stands totally restored to its 16th century glory.

POLANCO : Long the chic shopping district of D.F., Polanco is best known for its European designer boutiques. However, newcomer Mineralia (Presidente Mazarik 368) is the place to get a bargain and be chic at the same time. The store is filled with strands of beads which you can wear as necklaces or re-string to your own taste. The big, chunky ethnic look is in style; here the average strand of rocks or beads is $12. If you insist, continue on Mazarik where every Euro designer has a shop including Max Mara, Loro Piana, Diesel and Zara. There are no low cost designer deals. But wait! In Polanco's little alley-malls there's local shops (try Macarene Gutierrez, Pasaje de Polanco, Mazarik 360m local 21-B) where Mexican made copies of Prada style shoes are on sale for $50.

TRADITIONAL WEEKENDS: Despite all this new stuff, Saturdays are still devoted to the Bazaar Sabado in the upmarket San Angel district. In the streets as well as inside several colonial style mansions, a variety of crafts people hold forth and sell their wares, mercado to mansion style.

Sundays in DF belong to the age old custom of the promenade -- many head to Sullivan Park where there's usually a free concert in the band shell, some arts and crafts vendors set up before an art fair of local artists and sculptors and then a tiangis, or market filled with colorful stalls draped in flower printed vinyl. Each stand sells something you need- fruits, foods, socks, cinnamon scented soap, brightly colored plastics and illegal DVDs.

While Mexico City is probably no more dangerous than any other big city, people are always aware and careful. So when they part from friends, they say 'have a nice day and travel with care.' The same to you, amigos.

Besitos,
SuzyKG

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